IF YOU HAVE THICK OR LONG HAIR DOUBLE THE MIXING AMOUNT.
REGULAR RANGE 1 part Permanent Hair Colour with 1.5 parts Developer. eg. 100ml Permanent Hair Colour with 150ml Developer.
HIGH LIFT RANGE 1 part Permanent Hair Colour with 2 parts Developer.
Mix Permanent Hair Colour and Developer in a plastic or glass bowl until a smooth and creamy paste is achieved.
REGULAR RANGE 35 to 40 minutes.
HIGH LIFT RANGE 45 minutes.
STEP 1: APPLY TO DRY HAIR Starting at the regrowth area, apply the Colour carefully and evenly to dry, clean Hair. Massage Colour through the Hair wearing protective gloves to ensure even coverage.
STEP 2: DEVELOP Once the Colour has been applied to the Hair, leave in Hair for 35 to 40 minutes to Develop. We suggest allowing the High Lift Series (901, 902 and 908) 45 minutes to develop.
STEP 3: RINSE YOUR HAIR Once the development time has been reached, rinse the Hair for 3 to 5 minutes in warm water until water runs clear. Condition Hair as normal.
5 FACTORS THAT AFFECT YOUR COLOUR
1. NATURAL HAIR COLOUR.
Identifying your Natural Hair Colour is THE MOST IMPORTANT factor to achieving the right Hair Colour. It is your Natural Hair Colour that determines the right Developer needed with the selected Colour.
Always identify your Natural Hair Colour from the roots, NOT the ends.
2. EXISTING COLOUR.
Before Colouring, you need to honestly examine your Hair history over the last 12 - 18 months. Any Colour that has been used with a Developer has the ability to affect the outcome of the Colour you are wanting to be.
For example: If your Hair is Coloured Dark and you want to be Light, you cannot put another Permanent Hair Colour over the top, as it will not do anything. To achieve this, you have to use Colour Remover or follow the Hair Lightening Process.
3. PERCENTAGE OF GREY HAIR.
Grey Hair has 0 pigment, which means that Permanent Hair Colour looks and works differently compared to any other Colour.
My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour covers 100% of Greys, with our Natural’s Range being specially designed for best results with Grey Hair.
When Colouring Grey’s, it is important to establish the percentage of Grey’s. If there is more than 50%, or 5 out of 10 Hairs, are Grey then we advise to use the My Hairdresser Natural Permanent Hair Colour Range with 20 Volume Developer.
If there is under 50% Greys, use any desired My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour.
4. HAIR THICKNESS.
There are 3 main types of Hair Thickness’ that have different resistance and effects to Hair Colour.
Fine has the least thickness, although that doesn’t mean that there isn’t a lot of it. It is generally the easiest to process Colour and therefore can be easily over processed. It can also be more susceptible to damage.
Medium is considered as normal or most common and does not need any special requirements when Colouring.
Thick is the thickest and strongest. There is generally a lot of it and can be quite heavy and hard to control due to its volume. Thick Hair can be harder when Colouring. It can be resistant to Hair Colour and may need a little more effort or processes when Colouring. It also generally needs more Product to cover the entire head of Hair.
Not sure which type of Thickness your Hair is? Here is a simple test.
Get a Hair band and see how many times you can wrap it around your Hair.
If you can wrap it around your Hair over 4 times, then you have Thin Hair.
If you can wrap it around your Hair 3 times, then you have Medium Hair.
If you can wrap 2 times and it feels tight, then you have Thick Hair.
5. HAIR POROSITY.
Hair Porosity is the Hairs ability to absorb moisture - the more moisture the Hair can absorb, the more Porous the Hair is. The amount of Porosity determines how the Hair will accept Hair Colour.
Low Porosity Hair can be quite shiny, particularly when its a Darker Colour. It is generally referred to as healthy. Low Porosity Hair can make Colour processing harder to penetrate as it resists the Colour process. To cater to this, alternate Colour Processes may need to be applied to get the desired result.
Normal Porosity Hair generally means low maintenance Hair. It is generally good for Hair Styles, and will Colour with a predictable result, when using the normal instructions. Normal Porosity Hair will however damage over time, with repeated Colour Processes. An occasional conditioning treatment should be apart of the Hair regime to keep up the Hair’s condition.
High Porosity Hair is caused by damage to the Hair through processes such as over Bleaching, chemical processes or the environment. Grey Hair is Highly Porous, Frizzy Hair is generally a sign of High Porosity Hair. High Porosity Hair will absorb Colour very well and very quickly, as the Hair Shaft is very open. High Porosity Hair can be high maintenance and generally needs a lot of TLC in terms of regular treatments and conditioners. Products high in protein are particularly good.
Want to know if your Hair is Highly Porous? Do the following test:
Take a couple of strands of your Hair, and drop them into a bowl of water. Let them sit for a couple of minutes. If the Hair is floating, it has low porosity. If its sinking, it has high porosity.
COLOURING GREY HAIR
Grey or White Hair has 0 pigment, meaning it has naturally lost its Natural Colour pigment. Grey Hair absorbs Colour differently; they can be Colour resistant and are a lot more resilient to Colour.
Our Permanent Hair Colour’s cover 100% of Greys, with our Natural’s Range being specially designed for best results with Grey Hair. When Colouring Grey’s, it is important to establish the percentage of Grey’s.
If there is more than 50% or 5 out of 10 Hairs are Grey, we suggest using the My Hairdresser Natural Permanent Hair Colour Range with 20 Volume Developer.
If you have under 50% Grey’s, use any desired My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour and Developer.
TIPS FOR COLOURING RESISTANT GREY HAIR:
Choose a Natural Hair Colour.
Mix a Colour with a Golden reflect with a Natural Colour to help grab the Grey / White Hair. Example: Mix a 7.3 Golden Blonde with a 7 Medium Blonde.
If you have patches of resistant Grey Hair, apply the Colour to these areas first so they have more time to process the Colour.
10 COLOUR COMMANDMENTS
1. MAKE SURE THERE IS PLENTY OF PRODUCT.
Make sure there is enough Product to cover your Hair. If you have long, thick Hair you may need to use 2 tubes of Colour or 2 packets of Colour Remover to cover the full head. All My Hairdresser Colours, Developers and Colour Remover are resealable, and can be used again in the future.
Remember the measurements for Developers: For every 1 part Colour you need to use 1.5 Parts
Developer. If Colouring with a High Lift Colour, you will use 1 part Colour to 2 parts Developer.
2. CORRECT PRODUCTS FOR YOU.
Do you have the correct Colour and Developer for your Hair? Is the Developer strong enough to Lighten your Hair, if you want to be very Light Blonde? Do you have any Colour build up that will hinder the
Colouring Process? If so, you need to use Colour Remover to clear it out.
3. CREATE YOUR OWN AT HOME SALON.
Make your own at Home Salon, so you feel more comfortable Colouring at Home. Having everything set out will make each Colouring experience less daunting. Always have some old towels ready for use as a cape or to dry your newly Coloured Hair. Use an old shirt, T-shirt or old piece of clothing you can use every time you Colour. Don’t forget an old sheet to cover the floor and remember to hide or cover anything and everything within Colour splashing distance. If possible get a friend or partner to help. Otherwise a second mirror can help you see the back of your Hair when Colouring.
4. HAIR MUST BE DRY AND PRODUCT FREE.
Before Colouring make sure your Hair is dry and Product free - no Hair spray, leave in conditioner or gel.
5. ALWAYS DO A SKIN ALLERGY TEST.
48 hours before each use of Colour or Colour Remover, always perform a Skin Allergy Test. This can help determine if any allergy or hypersensitivity exists.
6. STRAND TESTS CAN SOLVE PROBLEMS BEFORE THEY HAPPEN.
Strand tests are ideal to test a Colour on a small amount of Hair. It is a simple way to see if the Colour will work, if you will like it and the best way to avoid serious Colour disasters.
7. HAVE ALL THE TOOLS.
Make sure you have everything you need to help achieve an easy and equal application. These tools make life easier:
Tint Bowl and Brush - ideal for mixing and applying Colour. Sectioning Clips - to divide and hold your Hair in sections. Cape - to cover you from potential dripping during the application process. Applicator Bottle - if you prefer to mix and apply Colour in a bottle. Measuring Cup. Comb.
8. KNOW YOUR PROCESS TIMES.
Pay Attention to instructions! Always know the process time of the Product you are using. Never leave Colour or Colour Remover on for longer than the stated development time. Leaving product on your Hair longer than instructed will not make the Hair Darker and will not make the Colour Remover, remove more.
9. WRITE A COLOUR CARD.
Just like the Hairdressers, write down the mixture you use, with the quantities of each Colour and Developer. It makes it easier when you go to Colour your Hair next time.
10. OOPS! MADE A MISTAKE?
Got the wrong Colour? Or is the Colour too Dark or uneven? These are problems that can be fixed!
If the Colour is wrong for you and you want to start again, use the My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour Remover.
Or is the Colour too Dark or you want to Lighten it a shade or two? Again, use the My Hairdresser Colour Remover on wet, towel dried Hair. This will weaken the removing power and should leave you with a Lighter shade.
Is the Colour not Dark enough? Choose a Colour a shade or two Darker or if its too dull, try a Colour with a Red, Copper or Violet reflect for some extra character. Try these Colours with a No Lift Developer.
Are you left with a Colour too orange or yellow? Simple, just tone it using the My Hairdresser Toner Kit.
Or is the Colour uneven? If its due to your application, just re Colour. If its uneven due to your past Colour and Natural roots, you will most likely need to Colour Remove and start again.
When Colouring or Colour Removing, section your hair to get the best, even coverage.
Comb Hair straight back away from your head to remove any knots. With a fine comb, create a part down the middle of the Hair.
Using the comb, follow the part from the front to the bottom of the head, creating 2 large sections of Hair.
Starting at the crown of the head, use the comb to create a part down the left side of the head to the ear. Repeat on the right side. You should be left with 4 sections.
WHAT IS REGROWTH?
Regrowth is your new Hair growth closest to your scalp, also known as your roots. It is your Natural Hair Colour. Your regrowth is the key to determining your Developer choice when Colouring your Hair.
You must look at your regrowth to know how many levels you will need to lift or deposit your Natural Hair Colour, to achieve your new chosen Hair Colour.
Regrowth can be a pain to maintain, especially when you are Naturally a lot darker than your Hair Colour or when your are Colouring Grey’s. However, just because you have regrowth does not mean you have to apply Colour to your whole head. Instead, apply the Colour to your roots and every other time apply to the rest of your Hair. If you continuously apply Colour to your entire head of Hair, you will create Colour Build Up and your Hair will become brittle and damaged.
If you are looking to freshen up your Colour or maintain vibrancy, apply Colour to your roots, then in the last 10-20 minutes of the processing time apply some Colour mixture to the lengths of your Hair and comb through. This will help to maintain your Colour without bombarding your Hair with Colour.
Maintaining regrowth is easy with My Hairdresser. All our Colour and Developers are resealable, so you can mix a small amount of Product and use the remainder when you next need it.
For a quick savvy root touch up, when time is really against you, mix a small amount of Colour and Developer and apply the Colour to your Hair line around your face and key Hair partings. This technique is perfect for a special event, when you are short on time.
COLOUR BUILD UP
WHAT IS COLOUR BUILD UP?
Colour Build Up is a result of multiple applications of Colour on top of Colour, over months and years. The more applications of Colour, creates a larger amount of Colour Build Up - therefore long time Colour users will most likely have a lot of Build Up. Although it isn’t damaging, Colour Build Up can stop the Colour and Colour Remover process from working, and will result in no change to your Hair Colour.
HOW DO I KNOW IF I HAVE TO REMOVE COLOUR BUILD UP?
Let’s say you have been Colouring your Hair Dark Brown for a year or more and now you want to be a Lighter Hair Colour. Firstly, you will have a considerable amount of Colour Build Up to remove and without removing the past darker Permanent Hair Colour and the months of Colour Build Up, you will not be able to Lighten your Hair. You will also notice, Colour Build Up will also make your Colour darker with each application.
HOW DO I REMOVE COLOUR BUILD UP?
Colour Remover can clear your Hair of Colour Build Up. Remember, the darker the Colour and the longer the applications of that Colour, the longer it will generally take to remove the Colour Build Up. Make sure to have plenty of Product on your Hair and be prepared to do more than one application to clear out your Build Up. By using Colour Remover regularly, you can maintain your Build Up without any damage to your Hair.
HOW DO I KNOW I HAVE CLEARED OUT THE COLOUR BUILD UP?
Do a Strand Test of your next Colour. If the Colour does not develop, you need to continue removing your Colour Build Up.
Vibrant Colours, also known as Fashion Colour’s / Shades, are Red’s, Coppers and Violets. They are statement Colours, that are bright with serious intensity, designed to stand out. Unfortunately Vibrant Colours do fade a lot more than your typical Blonde, Brunette or Natural’s.
HOW TO KEEP MY COLOUR VIBRANT
After your first Colour, do not wash your Hair again for at least 48 hours, to allow enough time for the Colour to grab and settle in your Hair.
Wash your Hair less. The more you wash your Hair, the more your vibrancy will fade. Try and wash your Hair at least every 3 days, to get longer life out of your Colour.
When its time to Colour your roots, do not re Colour your full head of Hair. This method is not a good way to refresh your Colour. In fact you will end up with copious amounts of Colour Build Up making the Colour darker not brighter. Instead, when Colouring your roots, have some extra Colour mixture and apply to your lengths during the last 20 minutes of the process time, combing the Colour through to refresh the pigment.
If you are an avid Colourer, particularly with Fashion Colours, maintain your Colour by doing a six month or annual Colour Remover to refresh and restart your Colour. This will keep your Hair free from Colour Build up and will improve the intensity of your future Colours.
WHAT IS TONE?
Tone refers to the Colour of the Hair, it has nothing to do with lightness or darkness. There are two types of Tones: Warm Tones and Cool Tones. When you are adding Tone to the Hair, you are calming or softening a Colour normally by adding Cool Ash / Grey Tones. When you Tone, you are counteracting Red and Orange, or Warm Tones, in the Hair.
WHY DO YOU TONE?
You Tone to get rid of unwanted Brassy - Yellow or Orange - Tones from Blonde Hair. These generally occur after Colouring, Colour Removing or Bleaching. These warm Colours are completely normal when Colouring and can be easily solved. If you have had your Hair Coloured at a Hairdresser, they will generally Tone your Hair without you even noticing.
HOW DO YOU TONE?
Using the My Hairdresser Toner Kit. To Tone, you need to use a Developer that will not Lighten your Hair, this is called a No Lift Developer. You then need to pair it with a Colour with an Ash or Beige Pigment, that will Tone and counteract any brassiness. We recommend a 9.1 Light Ash Blonde. For directions, take a look at our How To Tone page for more information.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I TONE?
Everyone is different, Tone when you need to Tone. Often people who spend a lot of time in the sun and water, or who wash their Hair frequently, may need to Tone their Hair every 2-4 weeks.
WHO CAN TONE?
Anyone. It’s not just Blondes or those Bleaching that need to Tone. If you are Naturally a warm Colour or find your Colour is too warm or Golden, you can Tone.
CAN YOU USE ANY COLOUR TO TONE?
Colours with Ash, Beige or Silver Tones are the Cool Colours needed to Tone. You must choose a Colour that is the same level or a bit Lighter than the Colour you are, not darker.
IF YOU HAVE THICK OR LONG HAIR DOUBLE THE MIXING AMOUNT.
Equal Parts No Lift Developer and 9.1 Permanent Hair Colour.
Mix equal Parts No Lift Developer and 9.1 Permanent Hair Colour in the Applicator Bottle until combined.
Check Hair every 5 minutes, until you reach the desired Colour.
DO NOT EXCEED 20 MINUTES.
STEP 1: APPLY TO DRY HAIR Apply first to root section. Spread the remainder of the mixture through the Hair, from roots to ends. Gently massage in.
STEP 2: DEVELOPING TIME Leave mixture on Hair and check every 5 minutes, until you reach the desired Colour. Do not exceed 20 minutes.
STEP 3: RINSE YOUR HAIR Once you have reached your desired Colour, rinse the Hair and shampoo the Hair vigorously.
Strand test’s are an important element of Colour and Colour Removing. They are like doing a mini Colour or Colour Remover on a small amount of Hair, to ensure you get the results you want. You can also do the test to check if you have any Colour Build Up or if you need to Colour Remove again.
A strand test is a key step when making a drastic Colour change or Colouring after Colour Remover. It is a simpler way to know if your Colour is right for you or if you need to make some adjustments.
HOW TO DO A STRAND TEST
Wearing gloves, mix a small amount of your desired Colour and Developer or Colour Remover. Take a small amount of Hair from the back of the head, or in an area that can be easily hidden. Separate your Hair strand and clip away the rest of your Hair using Sectioning Clips, to stop any Hair touching the mixture.
Apply your mixture to your Hair strand. Leave on for the appropriate development time.
Once development time is reached, rinse the mixture out.
Dry Hair to observe results. If you are happy, proceed with your process.
Hair Colourants can cause an allergic reaction, which in rare cases may be severe.
Some of the ingredients in My Hairdresser Products can irritate certain individual skin.
Do not use the My Hairdresser Products if you have ever had a reaction to a Hair Colourant in the past.
Always do a Skin Allergy Test 48 hours before each use of the My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour Remover and Permanent Hair Colour Remover.
You can use our Permanent Hair Colours and Colour Remover with confidence, however reactions can occur for a very small number of people.
If you have had a Black Henna Tattoo in the past, even a long time ago, you may be more likely to have become allergic without knowing it.
Do not use the My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour and Permanent Hair Colour Remover if:
You have already had a reaction to a Hair Colourant. You have an itchy or damaged scalp. If skin is broken.
Never use any My Hairdresser Products to Colour Remove or Colour eyelashes or eyebrows. To do so may be harmful to the eye.
Always avoid contact with eyes. If in eyes (remove contact lenses if used) hold eyes open, flood with water for at least 15 minutes and see a doctor immediately or call a Poisons Information Centre.
Do not use Products directly on skin. Do not use on a moustache or beard.
Avoid contact with skin. If ill effects occur, flush affected area with water and seek immediate medical attention.
DO NOT SWALLOW. If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting. Give glass of water and seek immediate medical attention.
IN CASE OF A REACTION DURING THE APPLICATION such as intense stinging, irritation, rash or burning sensation on the scalp, rinse immediately and discontinue use. If you experience shortness of breath, seek immediate medical attention.
Before Colouring your Hair again, consult a doctor.
For medical advice, contact a doctor or a Poisons Information Centre. Phone:
Australia 13 11 26 NZ 0800 764 766 UK 0870 600 6266 USA 1800 222 1222 Western Pacific Region 1800 88 8099
SKIN ALLERGY TEST
Before each use of the My Hairdresser Products you must always perform a Skin Allergy Test 48 hours prior to application.
Step 1: Using soap and water, wash an area 1 inch in diameter behind the ear. Pat dry with cotton wool.
Step 2: Wearing gloves, mix together small amount of 1 part My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour and 1.5 parts of My Hairdresser Developer.
Or if using the Permanent Hair Colour Remover. Mix together a small amount of equal parts of Part A and Part B.
Step 3: Apply mixture to test area using an absorbent cotton tip applicator. Leave on for 48 hours without washing, touching or covering.
After 48 hours examine the test area. If during this period, you notice abnormal reactions such as redness, itching or swelling in the test area DO NOT APPLY THE PRODUCT.
If no reaction is present you may proceed.
Permanent Hair Colour Ingredients
Aqua [water], Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-25, MyrIStyl Myristate, Ammonium Hydroxide, PROpYLENE GLYCOL, ETHANOLAMINE, LAURYL ALCOHOL, MYRISTYL ALCOHOL, SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE, EDTA, ASCORBIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROSULFITE, OLEA EUROPAEA [OLIVE OIL], PARFUM [FRAGRANCE]
IT MAY CONTAIN: p – PHENYLENEDIAMINE, RESORCINOL, 2-AMINO-4 HYRDOXYETHYLAMINOANISOLESULFATE, p-AMINOPHENOL, m – AMINOPHENOL, 1 – NAPHTOL, 4 – AMINO – 2 – HYDROXYTOLUENE, n-PHENYL— p – PHENYLENEDIAMINE, TOLUENE 2,5 DIAMINESULFATE, HC RED No.3, DISPERSEBLUE 377, 2-AMINO-6-CHLORO-4-NITROPHENOL, 5-AMINO-6-CHLORO-O-CRESOL.
COLOUR NUMBER SYSTEM
Each My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour is identified through the My Hairdresser Colour Number System. The Colour Number tells you everything you need to know about the Permanent Hair Colour. It describes the Colours Depth and Reflect.
HOW TO UNDERSTAND THE COLOUR NUMBER
The first number of a Permanent Hair Colour will always be a Natural Hair Colour; it describes the Colour’s depth. The second and / or third numbers describe the Colour’s reflects. The reflects can be broken down in primary reflect and secondary reflect. The primary reflect will be the more dominant of the reflects. Reflects are the secondary Colour that is prominent in sunlight or with movement. They give your Colour character and dimension. Example: 5.53 Chocolate Brown has a lot of Red reflects to give you a full bodied Colour.
The following My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour have Cool Undertones.
WARM AND COOL UNDERTONES
The following My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour have Warm and Cool Undertones.